Sunday, August 25, 2013

Gestation


Week 3

 

John is with us for the first three weeks, taking charge and translating English to French, Swahili, Kinande, and vice versa[1].

 

He is overwhelmingly nice to me, making me feel guilty for any sign of impatience or frustration. I met his wife an oldest daughter 5 years ago in Washington DC and am worried I won’t recognize them. But as soon as she enters the courtyard, the two tiny girls in matching dresses run to and cling their mother.

 

Mama Raziki is also gracious and accommodating, having given me one of her kids bedrooms to myself and making her eldest bring me half-full buckets of boiling water for the first few mornings, until Denise shows me where in the kitchen its heated[2].

 

But then, the whole town is graciously accommodating, making me a guest of honor at a 1,200 person wedding and presenting the delegation “from America” the gift of an entire roasted goat. In fact, delegations from Tanzania, Uganda, and China are all called to the podium to receive ceremoniously skinned and roasted goats in cloth covered baskets, sprigs of parsley and spring onions stuck in their peeling, shining mouths[3].

 

The first few days at the office are revealing. I’ve worked on the periodic reports for almost three years without having closely examined the accounts, ever since I stopped having time to. I don’t understand the transition the office has made to a financial cooperative. And I don’t approve of how the credit commission works. But it is early days.

 

Week 4

 

We meet with wholesalers, retailers, go-buy-chop sellers, industry owners, service providers, and academics[4]. We start planning a permaculture training, a handicrafts exporting business, and visit the beneficiaries of our first institutional funder. I’m told that Nande are known to be businesspeople. They hate politics and would rather work in business. Except that some of them have realized that politics affects business, so they have recently started getting into politics.

 

Week 5

 

I realize there is no one in Butembo with John’s level of English, so we organize a hurried training in public information with the staff. I continue to try to find and meet, in total, with 4 potential interpreters.  The one I choose starts with me on the first day of John’s last week. On Thursday, John’s last day before he leaves, John is pulled to his in-laws for a series of visits that takes him all day to return from. The PMI office is next door to a clinic called “Fight Against Mental Illness” with crowds of men in odd choices of clothing constantly lounging outside, ready to kung-fu fight with the white girl and other unintelligible requests.



[1] According to the family I’m staying with, 99.9% of the people residing in and around Butembo are Kinande. This will be an important distinction for the research I proposed to do with my PhD, which intended to look at ethnic tensions as a driver of conflict, both economic and political. It calls for correction, then, and probably revisiting and redesigning the original research proposal to either drop the inter-ethnic aspect or increase the geographic scope of the research.
[2] The family uses a combination of heating sources in the two rooms of their outside kitchen, including compressed gas cylinders in one room of the kitchen, and a variety of charcoal brassieres in the other room. It’s a luxury at all to have a bath with heated water every morning, but in a mountainous region, with temperatures ranging from 17-22, easy to get used to.
[3] This is in line with Gerard Pruniers observations on Rwandans adopting “synthetic “tribes of exile,”, that is, the countries where they had spent their years away…there were “Zairians,” “Burundians”, “Tanzanians,” and “Ugandans”…If these distinctions did not matter too much in daily life, they mattered a lot as soon as politics, business, or the military was involved”(4:1). I also observe that it highlights the family’s international ties and influence, as does the presentation of a member of parliament based in Kinshasa.
[4] Some of PMI’s clients are teachers who use us for income smoothing purposes. We also work with a couple of schools to do automatic salary payments, which helps schoolteachers save their earnings.

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